tom hudgens

Fresh figs are cherished by California cooks—in their summer season, they are given pride of place not only in desserts, but also in salads, hors d’oeuvres, and main courses. In Chez Panisse Fruit, introducing the chapter on figs, Alice Waters writes, “Their flavor combines flawlessly with the other ingredients that define the cuisines of southern Europe that inspire us.” That prompted me, harvesting a bowlful of green fresh calimyrna figs from a tree we are fortunate to have in our yard, to really scrutinize figs’ flavor. How would you define the flavor of figs? What makes them so appealing?
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WILD MUSHROOM RISOTTO WITH SWEET CORN AND FINES HERBES/
SLOW-ROASTED SALMON WITH CUCUMBERS, LEMON, AND DILL/
GREEN BEAN SALAD WITH CHERRY TOMATOES AND BASIL/
GOAT CHEESE BAKED IN FIG LEAVES WITH FRESH FIGS, WALNUT LEVAIN BREAD, AND HONEY/

Ah, risotto. When I was in my mid-twenties, I remember a friend being shocked upon learning I’d never eaten or made risotto. He promptly invited us over for a risotto dinner, and the rest is history—risotto became one of my mainstays. I served it to my fellow cast-members of The Merchant of Venice at one of our many parties. I made it for New Year’s Eve many a year, usually flavored with saffron. When I worked for a large, high-end catering company, they booked me for any party that had risotto on the menu. Once, I remember supervising five cooks, each stirring a giant cauldron of wild mushroom risotto, for a fund-raiser with 500 guests. I demonstrated risotto to my Culinary Arts students at Deep Springs, an early autumn version containing butternut squash and fresh sage.
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