tom hudgens

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The Comforts of Winter: An Indian Feast

February 21, 2011

Tags: Indian Food, Chicken, Rice, Vegetables, Oranges, Desserts

•CHICKEN CURRY WITH GREEN GARLIC AND SPINACH
•WINTER VEGETABLE DAL WITH COCONUT MILK
•BASMATI RICE AND QUINOA
•PAPADUMS
•YOGURT RAITA WITH MUSTARD SEED
•BLOOD ORANGE GELEE WITH SPICES AND FENNEL CANDY


While I'd love to think I could be content cooking and eating simple, elemental meat and vegetable dishes--"salt-and-pepper cooking"--for the rest of my days, as my ancestors did, nothing could be further from the truth. Sometimes, I want spice, intrigue, exotica. At these times, I often "go" to India. I've always loved Indian cuisine; in early versions of The Deep Springs Cookbook, later to become The Commonsense Kitchen, I extolled: "Indian food is a wholly different and exciting culinary idiom. Fresh ginger, basmati rice, and whole spices are no longer hard to find, as they were early in my cooking days. Once you learn a few of the basic dishes and procedures, Indian food lends itself to flights of improvisation, especially when you have access to a variety of vegetables. Vegetables are closer to the heart and soul of Indian food than meat; in fact, it may be perfectly expressed without any meat at all." Bearing that in mind, I thought an Indian feast using lots of winter vegetables would be perfect for the winter seasonal cooking class. The chicken curry contains silky green garlic--a late winter farmers' market specialty--and fresh spinach, and the vegetable curry has vegetables that might seem more Mediterranean than Indian: butternut squash, fennel, kohlrabi, and celery root.
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CREATIVE SEASONAL COOKING: Session #3

July 7, 2010

Tags: COOKING CLASS, Summer Squash, Chicken, Onions, Corn, Beans, Pesto, Gingersnaps

SUMMER SQUASH CARPACCIO WITH PECORINO, ALMONDS, AND MINT
ROAST CHICKEN BREASTS MARINATED WITH HERBS, ALLSPICE, AND LEMON
-SWEET RED ONION RELISH
SUCCOTASH OF SWEET CORN AND FRESH SHELL BEANS WITH PESTO
GINGERSNAPS, VANILLA ICE CREAM, BOYSENBERRIES, AND GOLDEN PLUMS

Summer is ease and light…well, poetically, at least. These are the qualities we often crave in summer food--we prefer to cook relatively quick and easy dishes, and the heat can diminish our appetite. It was a hot Fourth of July weekend; I wanted to make a menu of dishes celebrating the holiday, utilizing the early summer bounty, and reflecting those poetic summer qualities of ease and lightness. Starting with a traditional Texas Fourth of July menu—barbecued chicken, corn on the cob, baked beans with chopped fresh onion, salad, and ice cream—and rearranging the elements, adding a few California embellishments, we come up with a beautiful, festive meal that is relatively easy and light, and, in its own way, just as comforting as the traditional one.
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Introducing a New Spice

June 10, 2010

Tags: Spices, Chicken, Indian Food, Ajwain Seed, Cashews, Chicken Salad

Well, before I tell you about the spice, let me introduce one of my favorite new cookbooks, Niloufer Ichaporia King's My Bombay Kitchen: Traditional and Modern Parsi Home Cooking (University of California Press, 2007). I've always loved Indian cooking (see the "Gunhild's Chicken Curry" recipe in The Commonsense Kitchen), but via Niloufer's book it feels newly discovered. I especially love cookbooks that tell a personal story; after reading My Bombay Kitchen and delving into some of the recipes, I feel like I've spent a fascinating (and delicious) evening at Niloufer's house, listening to stories of her intercontinental past, and savoring her delicious food.
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(tangerines and dates; winter Cooking Class, 2011)

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(hog at the trough, Deep Springs, Summer 2007)

(chard in the Deep Springs garden, Fall 2006)

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