-ROCK COD BAKED IN FIG LEAVES
-SAUTEED SPICY SQUID
GARDEN SALAD WITH PAIN AU LEVAIN CROUTONS
RASPBERRIES WITH ROSE-SCENTED CREAM
How do you compose a menu? This one started with a craving, for roasted potatoes with aioli. Right now—early summer—is the perfect time of year to satisfy such a craving. Garlic has just been harvested; the sharpness is fresh and true, the cloves delicate and juicy, all the better for pounding to a puree with a mortar and pestle for aioli. (By “aioli,” I mean nothing but the classic southern French garlic mayonnaise, freshly made with egg yolks, a smidgen of Dijon mustard, wine vinegar, lemon juice, salt, and lots of extra-virgin olive oil, flavored with pounded garlic.) New potatoes, thin-skinned and sweet, are emerging from the ground, too.